Surreal South Africa: visiting Secunda
One of my strangest (and scariest) experiences was my visit to the SASOL plant at Secunda. This is the largest synthetic fuels plant in the world and is situated on an open grassy plain a few hours drive east of Johannesburg.
My recollection was that my plane arrived in Johannesburg around dawn after an overnight flight from London so I was pretty exhausted and jet-lagged. I had to get a rental car and then drive for hours across the Veldte (on the wrong side of the road… South Africa is an ex-British colony). The scenery was pretty spectacular… Definitely “big sky” country although it was strikingly different from anything I have seen in the US or Australia.
Eventually I arrived at Secunda and that’s where things got surreal. I had been checked into Graceland Hotel Casino & Country Club (see photo). I drove up the sweeping drive surrounded on both sides by a treeless, windswept, and totally empty golf course to the hotel casino itself which was a fantastic thing like something out of a Disney theme park.

Under the entrance portico I was met by a tall, thin black man dressed up as Uncle Sam (all in red, white, and blue satin with a top hat, tail coat, and brightly colored suspenders… Braces if you are from the UK.).
Inside, the theme was 1800′s New Orleans and the Mississippi… The staff were dressed up like saloon keepers with straw boater hats and sleeve garters. The hotel was quite luxurious and new but it seemed very odd to find all this pseudo-Americana in the depths of Africa.
The next morning I drove out the SASOL plant and that also was more than a bit surreal. The synthetic fuel plant had been developed to circumvent the oil embargo imposed by the world community during the apartheid era and, inevitably, was a target for the anti-apartheid guerrillas. On the morning I drove out, a huge thunder storm was drifting in from the west, looming over the plant… And the plant was heavily fortified with armored watch towers. The overall impression that morning was like something out of a high-tech, industrial Lord of the Rings.
This visit took place a few years after the collapse of apartheid. Unfortunately, the end of apartheid has made South Africa, if anything, even more dangerous than when there was an ongoing civil war. All the South African engineers I worked with routinely carried guns when they drove to and from work… There were lockers at the gatehouse where you left you gun while at the plant. As a visitor and not being familiar with the local modus vivendi, I was pretty worried. Rather like a Japanese tourist who got parachuted into the South Bronx or Watts.